Jalie 2908 “The perfect jean, or not”

Well after many months of trying to find the perfect fitting jeans that would fit my very expansive list of necessary qualities I decided to try to sew my own jeans again.  Now let me say that I have sewn jeans in the past but I have never been happy with the outcome of the pattern, maybe I am exceptionally persnickety or maybe I have a strange lower body but they are never 100%.  For me the perfect jean is a thinner boot cut leg, not too tight around the thigh( I have really developed muscular thighs from many years of Air Cadets), fitted through the hip and waist and hitting probably about an inch below my natural waist.  I am very high waisted and I have quite a small waist compared to my hip (waist 32in hip 42.5 inch) so they need to be nipped in quite a bit so I don’t have major gaposis.  I had read many reviews of several different patterns for jeans and went back and forth between Jalie or J Stern, in the end Jalie had more reviews and that I should just go with that one.  

I sewed like a mad beast over the weekend hoping that everything would look as great as Ms. Erica B’s did but when they were done I really don’t like them.  I bought thicker stretch denim which I washed and dried twice, it was the required stretch and it was a beautiful dark wash and pretty expensive.  I also bought the gutterman jeans thread in the classic gold color, rivets and jeans buttons.  I followed all instructions but changed the pocket design to my own design.  I powered through and managed to cut, interface, sew and topstitch the jeans in a 12 hour mania stretch. I was ecstatic because they looked great on my dress form, I put them on to marvel at my creation and was disappointed.  They give me mom butt, the stretch is too stretchy and they just are not right all over.   I will not even disgrace the inter webs with pictures of the horrendous mom butt effect, you will have to take my word for it.

My list of disappointments from these jeans is:

1.)    Even though I picked the low waist option they are still really high in the back, like comically high and I think that’s what furthers the mom butt issue but I did confirm that I was using the right pieces.

2.)    The pocket placement is too high for my butt, realistically I would need to lower the placement by at least an inch

3.)    The pocket placement is too far out towards the hip but not by much, I think if I moved them in a half inch it would make my aforementioned rear end look smaller and less momish

 

4.)  There is some extra fabric directly below my bum that bunches up.  I have done fisheye alterations for the rear before and it has helped.  I just found a great Kenneth King alteration that I may use instead.  But the extra below the bum is just unattractive

5.)    The front rise is a little too low maybe if I raised it by an inch it would be more comfortable.

6.)    I hate the bias cut waistband.  I did read through the reviews and many people commented that this waistband had a tendency to roll over but when I first make a pattern I try to follow the pattern to a t, then I make alterations for the next time.  But this wasitband should be removed from the pattern and a contoured band should be added.  

7.)    I don’t think that the pattern actually needs as much stretch as the denim I bought had.  I really think that I probably could have gotten away with as low as a 10% stretch.

8.)    I don’t have a large belly but I do carry some flub around my midsection and I don’t know whether it’s the cut or the fabric but these jeans seam to enhance said flub.  If I do make these again I will extend the pockets to the fly area to act as a little tummy control. 

Now with the list of things I would change I have to ask myself if I am going to bother making another pair of jalie jeans or not.  Right now I am too disappointed to even contemplate that, I had really been hoping to have a great pair of home sewn jeans for an upcoming trip but sadly that is not the case.  But further do I stick with Jalie whose block apparently doesn’t work for my body or do I try J Stern or do I whip out my trusty drafting book and get back into the drafting saddle.  I have drafted pants before in the past but I have never done jeans but I think that I could probably do it.

Not all is lost I did have enough denim to make a little skirt so I have sewn that up but I am not going to post pictures of anything I have sewn for my vacation until I get back.  But in the last few weeks I have sewn 3 skirts, two and a half dresses, two dress shirts and a wrap for the plane.  Do not worry all will be revealed once I return on March 13.

Till we speak again

Hugs

Megs

 

Vacation Sewing and my continual procrastination

So I am going on a vacation with my mother in law in about 23 days and I have just finalized my sewing plans.  I knew that I was going with her several months ago and should have started my travel wardrobe then but its so hard to sew for nice weather when the leaves start falling or when its -40C, but I had a panic moment the other day and now the mad dash starts.  For my wardrobe there are a few items that I have already made and that will come with me, I have also bought a few things but I really want to make a few things.  I would like to make a chambray shirt (discussed below), a gingham shirt (done just needs buttons) a pair of white jeans, a white denim skirt, 2 loose dresses (Vogue 1236), and maybe a couple blouses (Simplicity 2599).  It seems like an insurmountable amount of sewing but I will persevere.  The added drama of this situation is that because I am hourly and February is a short month I also have to squeeze in some extra work hours.  Also one more task for my February is that my husband is starting a business and I am designing his corporate identity, including business cards, logos, letterhead etc.  I also would like to do a big cooking day called “Once a month mom”.  Last time I did it with my mom I saved around $500 for the month in groceries and it was so nice to get home and have dinner waiting, no muss, no fuss, plus then I can have meals in the freezer for my husband who would just eat garbage food while I am gone. So this month looks like it is going to be a busy month with no breaks in sight.  But as long as I sew something each night then I think that I will be ok.

Well I have made two more simplicity 2339’s.  One is peach colored gingham and the other is a light blue chambray.  I love the peach gingham one, but I don’t have any pictures so I will have to show you that one another day.  But the chambray one I am not as much in love with it.

 

 I think it looks a little prison uniform (the final version had sleeves and a button placket).  The real kicker about it is that I have spent so much time working on it that I am hesitant to just throw it away or start over.  When I found the fabric I wasn’t one hundred percent on the color but I was running out of time and had no other options so I threw caution to the wind.  But I am almost finished and I have concerns that I will not love this creation.  So where does that leave this shirt, my personal thoughts on it is that I should either bleach the fabric to all white or I should dip dye the shirt (Like the below picture).   

 

My biggest concern would be that it may make me look larger than I am.  But fashion does say that a darker color tends to recede and a brighter color jumps at you so maybe this will make my large hips recede and bring the attention to my face.  The other real kicker about this shirt is that somehow I put the sleeve vent on the wrong way, its not a huge deal but last night I was about ready to pop when I realized what I had done, I will most likely wear this shirt with the sleeves rolled up anyway.

After the shirts I had decided that I wanted to do a Missoni style maxi dress using McCalls 6073, but as a personal observation there is no way that I can wear maxi dresses, I am just too short.  I know many people that are shorter than me wear maxis but I think that problem with the way that I am built is that I have a long torso compared to my short legs so it just looks funny (when my husband and I sit on the couch I am taller than him from bum to head but when we stand my legs reveal my petite stature).  So after careful deliberation I chopped the bottom 12 inches off the dress and wide a wide sash for the waist.

I haven’t hemmed the dress yet and I think that I would like to take this dress in a little around the bust and waist area.  McCalls 6073 was a super easy pattern and I think that I may try making it again out of some slinky black jersey that I have.  I still wish that I could wear a maxi but I am not hopeful that it would look good.

Up next is Jalie 2908 out of some white stretch denim material.  I think that I will make the flared leg a little more stovepipe or at the very least boot cut.  I also plan on adding a little chub control panel, I have done it on other pants and it works).  I will post a little tutorial on that as soon as I can.

Till later

Hugs

Megs

Simplicity 2339

Simplicity 2339

Pattern Description: Amazing Fit Collection. Misses' & Miss petite shirt sewing pattern with individual pattern pieces for & A, B, C, D cup sizes.

Pattern Sizing: 6-14 and 14-22.  I made a 14 with a C cup

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were
done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? I hardly ever look at instructions usually I find the things that I get confused on I can find better instructions on line.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really loved how this shirt was a little longer, that it wasn’t a curved hemline and that the collar had a stand.  I hated how they used a piece of bias to make the sleeve slit opening, I avoided it and used a threads template for a perfect placket.  The threads method looks so much better please use it (http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/25307/how-to-make-a-precision-placket/page/all) it really doesn’t take that much extra time and makes it look much more professional.  I also really liked how this shirt had so many potential areas to completely customize it.  It is great that it has the different cup sizes; it really cuts down on any alterations that I normally have to make. 

Fabric Used: An absolutely beautiful Liberty of London Cotton and a synthetic eyelash lace.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I didn’t make any alterations on this version but in future versions I will add some more room around the hips.  I found that this one almost fits a less curvy hip structure, but it could be a personal preference as I like things to float around my lower midsection rather than sit right on it.  I have added about an inch on either side for future versions.  Even though I like the straight bottom on this version for a future version planned I have added a curved hem line.  Allthough the pattern called for buttons I didn’t want to destroy the lace so I just used some snaps.  I also interfaced all collar, neckline, cuff and button placket pieces because I wanted it to be stiff enough to hold the lace up. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I definitely would recommend this pattern to other people.  The multiple cup sizes along with the great pattern itself made this an easy sew, probably about 10 hours total.  I have already made a peach gingham version of this blouse and have two others cut out and ready to sew.  I also plan on cutting out a third of chambray, so yes I would recommend this one to anyone wanting a good dress shirt.  The one thing I would advise people is to check the hip measurement against yourself because that is the only area where I found it could need some extra room. 

Conclusion: This is one of my all time favorite wardrobe pieces.  I have worn it a bunch and always feel great it in it. 

Thanks for looking

Hugs

Megs

 

Vogue 8825

Pattern Description: Pullover tunic or dress has front extending into back collar, fitted, front pleated bodice, raised waist, tie ends, two-piece sleeves with barrel cuffs, and stitched hem. Fitted, straight-legged pants (below waist) have elastic waist.

Pattern Sizing: 8-24

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were
done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? I looked at the instructions once for neckline facing instructions but this pattern sorta just goes together.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the almost 70’s vibe that this dress gives off.  I also love that its like a wrap dress but with no risk of front gapage.  I also like the long gathered sleeves.

Fabric Used: A slinky deep burgundy/wine colored jersey fabric.  I can’t remember the exact contents but I know that it is manmade.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I didn’t make any alterations on purpose but this fabric has a definite right and wrong side that can only be seen in sunlight.  When I was sewing this I accidentally sewed the right front side to the wrong back sides.  There was absolutely no way to remove the seams without destroying the fabric so I cut very closely to the seam line and recut the back pieces with a little extra seam allowance to make up for what I cut off the front.  Next time I will be more careful because I think that I could have used that little extra around the front and not the back.  Next time I think that I will take a small dart in the neckline because the front does tend to gap a little bit, not enough that I am indecent but enough that sometimes just a bit of my lace slip can be seen, not scandalous but something that I am not entirely happy about.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I keep thinking that I will make this pattern again in the same material just in black (which I have) but I haven’t been motivated enough to do it.  I also have a vision of one in an emerald green silk jersey but there are so many other things that I want to sew so we will see.  That being said I would totally recommend this pattern.

Conclusion: I really do love this dress and I have worn it many times since making it.  I get compliments from random strangers both male and female saying they love the color and that it is a very beautiful dress.  I love how this dress shows off my curves but keeps my front tummy camouflaged with the big wrap tie wrap.  I do find the tie wrap a little long and may shorten it by a couple of inches for the next one.   This dress is a fantastic wardrobe builder and is great both in a professional and non professional setting. 

Till next time

Hugs

Megs

New Years Resolution

Goodness Gracious I am a terrible blogger.  I honestly sometimes don’t know why I started the blog.  I had all these grandiose plans that I would blog every project and show my process but what can I say I am a secretive sewer.

My new year’s resolutions include keeping a better blog.  I will accomplish this come hell or high-water.  Especially because my Mum keeps an excellent blog and I feel like I should too.  I have been incredibly sewing busy I am just rubbish at taking photos (which is strange given that I have two fantastic cameras).  I guess I just feel like if I am going to take time to make an outfit I should plan a photo shoot around it, but unfortunately for my blog I live in northern Alberta and we are currently in winter and don’t get very much light when I have time to shoot.  But no more excuses I promise that I will post more photos if you (any reader that might read this) promises to not make fun of the occasional iphone picture, lack of hair/makeup doneness, and the occasional surly look.  I can say in the coming weeks I will be posting photos of past completed projects and some projects that I am working on. 

Hugs

Megs